Black Dinah Truffle Tasting!

How sweet it is to be loved by you.

But you know what's even sweeter? To be loved by you when you're bearing a box of truffles from Black Dinah Chocolatiers.

In honor of Valentine's Day, we've teamed up with Black Dinah Chocolatiers of Isle au Haut to hold a truffle tasting from 2 to 4 p.m. this Saturday, Feb. 12. If you've had the privilege of trying one of Kate and Steve Shaffer's miniature masterpieces — the finest dark chocolate, filled with velvety ganache (think lavender, hot chili, honey, ginger or Earl Grey tea) — then you know why this is a big deal. If you haven't, you don't know what you're missing.

We're proud to offer their Valentine's Day Assortment: dark chocolate and Earl Grey tea in a milk chocolate heart; lemon-infused white chocolate in a white chocolate heart; and the limited edition Persian Love Caramel—rose-and-cardamom-scented caramel cream and a whole pistachio in a bittersweet chocolate heart. Supplies are limited. To make sure you reserve one before Saturday's event, pre-order by e-mailing jason@mainemaven.com with your preference of 18 pieces ($45) or 28 pieces ($69).

After you try them, you'll understand why we're completely in love with them. Sweet, sweet love.

To learn more, visit the Black Dinah website or click here to read one of our earlier blog posts.
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Let's Spoon

We love spooning. Who doesn't? And just when we thought it couldn't get any sweeter, we found this: Spoon Fudge by Robin's Chocolate Sauce.

For the uninitiated, Robin Jenkins of Fort Fairfield makes her sauces from wholesome Aroostook County butter and cream and fair-trade or organic dark chocolate. She uses a family recipe, which she received as a wedding present along with a silver tureen — now that's a good gift. And in turn, these small spoon fudges — basically a small jar of sauce that comes with a tiny spoon — make a perfect wedding favor. They come in seven flavors: original, blueberry, raspberry, tropical dark, orange spice, ginger pear, and bittersweet. They cost $3 each and you can buy them here.

Chocolate you can eat with a spoon? What's not to love?
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Strawberry Swing

This has to be the best spring ever in Maine — two days into June and the pick-your-own strawberry places have already been open for weeks. Which raises a question: What are your favorite Maine strawberry traditions?

For us, they involve picking berries at Maxwell's in Cape Elizabeth, mom's strawberry shortcake and the sublime strawberry ice cream at Goughan's Berry Farm in Caribou (SO worth the trip, plus, where else can you find a petting zoo these days?)

We want to know how you celebrate the strawberry season. So, if you have a favorite recipe, e-mail it to us at kristen@mainemaven.com . If you have a favorite pick-your-own stand, Maine-made strawberry dish or other tradition, post it below or send it to us via e-mail.

We'll post a roundup next week, and we promise: it will be berry nice.
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No Gluten? Darn Tootin'!

Here at the Casa del Maven, we've gone through some serious lifestyle changes in the last year, but the most challenging, by far, has been coping with celiac disease. After years of having an upset stomach, losing weight and generally feeling like ass, Jason and his doctors finally figured out what was wrong. Problem is, with celiac, the prescription for better health isn't as simple as taking a pill. It means cutting out gluten entirely from one's diet. For the uninitiated, gluten is the wonder-substance that makes bread, well, bread. It is found in all wheat products, barley, some oats via cross-contamination and pretty much everything else you can imagine — from soy sauce to tomato paste.

So to say the celiac diet is tricky is the understatement of the year. And for foodies like Jason, it has been devastating. Imagine a life without real bread — yes, they make gluten-free "bread." It sucks. And the recipes out there all have an ingredient list a mile long, full of things nobody's ever heard of. Going out to eat has become a nightmare (although Fiddlehead in Bangor has been particularly accommodating). And gluten-free food is expensive. As in $6 for a loaf of fake bread expensive.

Thankfully, Maven reader and fellow blogger Tara Barker told us about a new website that has made things a lot easier for celiacs and those with gluten intolerance in Maine. Founded by Portland residents Richard (who has celiac) and Roy (who does not), www.glutenfreemaine.com is a clearinghouse of local resources — with listings of Maine-made products that are gluten-free, Maine restaurants that serve gluten-free cuisine, a list of local and national blogs and more. Among my favorites is the "top gluten-free stories" section — who knew Starbucks added gluten to its Frappuccinos?

This is exactly what the doctor ordered, and we couldn't be happier. Now if Richard and Roy could just come up with a good bread recipe that doesn't have 20 or more ingredients ...
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Market Share: Hallowell Seafood & Produce

A few weeks back, the in-laws came to town bearing bags full of goodies (and in our house, "bags full of goodies" means really good groceries).

On a trip south, they had stopped at one of our favorite markets: Hallowell Seafood & Produce — quite possibly the best-kept secret in central Maine. Owned by Justin and Charles Underwood, the market is, as one news article described it, an upscale farm stand. And it's exactly the type of place you should visit if you're in Hallowell and in need of dinner inspiration.

The Underwood family has been involved in farming and fishing for decades (Justin is in his mid-20s and Charles is his dad), and Hallowell Seafood & Produce sells some of the freshest, most beautiful seafood we've seen. The crabmeat is especially impressive — claws intact, arranged in a starburst pattern rather than thrown willy-nilly into a tub. The in-laws brought so much haddock that we ate it for days — pan fried with butter and lemon, deep-fried with fresh tartar sauce — and the haddock was so good, we didn't mind eating it for days.

Now that the growing season is under way, the market's produce section will be filling up with amazing, locally grown veggies (we're not sure where the asparagus we had came from, but regardless of its origin, it was fabulous). Round out the selection with a small, well-edited selection of wines, Maine-made condiments and a drool-worthy cheese counter, and you've got the makings of a magnificent meal.

And if you can't stop yourself from buying too much, no worries: these are leftovers you won't regret.

Hallowell Seafood & Produce is located at 197 Water St. in Hallowell. For more information, call 207.621.0500.
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15 Minutes of Food Fame

So, Monday was Maine night for food TV lovers.

Anthony Bourdain's highly anticipated "No Reservations" visit to the Pine Tree State aired on the Travel Channel, and Food Network's "Unwrapped" visited Simply Divine Brownies and Gifford's ice cream.

Unfortunately, we missed all of it. But here's what we heard: Tony was a little snarky about Portland. He loved Conte's (who doesn't?) and according to his blog, the closer he got to the hometown of his cameraman Zach Zamboni (a UMaine alum from Milo), the better the trip was.

Thank you, Tony, for embracing the fact that there is life north of Augusta. Thank you, also, for not talking about beaver chili like it's the official state dish. Andrew Zimmern did, and we're still a little freaked out about it. Has anyone you know ever eaten beaver chili?

We haven't heard much about "Unwrapped," but frankly, what is there to say other than "yum"?

Did you tune in? And, if so, what did you think? Tell us below.

Bourdain will rerun at 10 p.m. Sunday (for details and clips, click here); For more on "Unwrapped," click here.
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The First Supper



It's a common question among foodies: if you had to choose your last meal on earth, what would it be and why?

Lately, The Maven has been turning that question on its head. Because she's pregnant and chooses to err on the side of caution, she's been avoiding many of her favorite foods — sushi, soft cheeses, rare meats, cured meats, smoked meats, cold cuts, runny eggs, red wine, white wine, sparkling wine, beer, coffee. After nine months of diet restrictions, we're asking: what would the first meal — post-delivery — be?

Most likely, it will involve some sort of gluey tapioca pudding from the Eastern Maine Medical Center cafeteria, but a girl can dream, right?

So if The Maven had to choose her first meal outside the hospital, here's what it would be (OK, so it's more like a day of meals):

We'd start at Ampersand in Orono with the largest caffeinated iced coffee possible. We'd need to take this to-go, because the next stop would be Slates in Hallowell for smoked shrimp Benedict and whatever the mimosa of the day is. Actually, make that two.

Lunch is a real toss-up. The crappy eater in The Maven wants nothing more than two hot dogs with sauerkraut, mustard and celery salt — and since we'd be in Hallowell anyway, Bolley's Famous Franks would certainly do the trick. And yes, we want fries with that. And some sort of caffeinated soda. But the more refined diner in The Maven would choose the filet mignon sandwich from The Grill Room in Portland. Super-rare. As in, "just walk the cow past the oven, please." Oh, and we'd get a side of greens, too. From there, we'd walk down to Novare Res for happy hour and indulge in whatever is on tap that day.

At this point, we'd be beyond stuffed, but since we've been eating for two lately, that probably won't matter. Dinner is also a toss-up: do we choose a sushi smorgasbord at Yosaku (mmmmm... tuna rolls)? Do we drive up to Rockland and order prosciutto-stuffed cherry peppers, a meat and cheese platter and whatever is good by the glass at In Good Company? Or do we stop by a local market and grab Appleton Creamery's oil-packed goat cheese or their superb interpretation of Humboldt Fog, a slab of smoked salmon from Grindstone Neck and a bottle of Prosecco to celebrate the arrival of the Little Lainsbury?

No matter what we choose, one thing's for certain — we're about to be role models, and we've got to teach the little guy the finer points of eating from the get-go. Fortunately, that's easy to do in Maine.

So, readers: If you had to choose your last (or first) meal in Maine, what would it be and why? Let us know by posting below.
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Stout and About

In the last two decades, Maine has earned a reputation for craft-brewed beers. And what better time to celebrate than St. Patrick's Day? Maine microbrewers consistently produce some of the best stouts we've had (and we've had quite a few, thank you very much). So this year, if you'd like to break with tradition and raise a toast with something other than Guinness tonight, here are a few of our picks. Slainte!

Marshall Wharf Sea Level Stout: It seems like every beer David Carlson touches turns to gold, and this is no exception. We've never met a beer from Marshall Wharf that we didn't like. Click here for locations.

Cadillac Mountain Stout: Rich and roasty, this award-winning brew from Bar Harbor is a perennial favorite. Think chocolate and hops. Click here for more info.

Gritty's Black Fly Stout: If you like your beers tall, dark and complex, this is the perfect match for you. It's malty and delicious.

Allagash Black: This Belgian-style stout is black as night, but it's neither heavy nor filling. Instead, it's just an ultra-drinkable brew. Another Allagash masterpiece, really.

Black Bear Microbrew Demon Stout: Don't let the name scare you off — this seasonal selection from Orono's microbrewery will make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

Sebago Lake Trout Stout: We love an oatmeal stout, and this creamy, smooth one from Sebago (pictured above) is great.
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The Big Cheese

When your friends call you a cheeseball, you don't get offended. Instead, you think, "Mmmmmm. Cheese."

We understand — we have yet to meet a dairy product we didn't like, and the Grindstone Neck "Betta than Chedda" that our friend Melissa brought to dinner last night is no exception.

Made by the folks who run Grindstone Neck Smokehouse in Winter Harbor, this cheese blows other spreads out of the water. It's a tangy blend of cheddar, cream cheese, herbs and spices and it's phenomenal on melba toast. In fact, it would be good on pretty much anything, including a spoon.

Though the company has a Web site, you won't find the cheese on there. But you can find it at State Street Wine Cellar in Bangor.

So go buy it and try it, cheeseball.
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Small, Pink and Handsome

Eating seasonally in New England is great — until November rolls around. By December, things start to get a little bleak, especially if you aren't a big fan of root veggies.

Then, Maine shrimp appear like a glistening pink mirage on the horizon, all sweetness and light. And like a mirage, they disappear almost as soon as you see them — until this year. The season has been extended through May 29, which is a huge deal compared with the usual six weeks in winter.

That doesn't make them any less precious. For starters, the New York Times, Village Voice, Providence Journal and New York Magazine have all extolled their virtues in recent weeks, which can only mean one thing: loads of the little sweeties will be headed south on fish trucks. But it looks like there are enough to go around this year, and community supported fisheries such as those offered by Port Clyde Fresh Catch and Penobscot East CSF are helping to spread the wealth. You can also find them at local markets and, if you're lucky, your winter farmers market.

But what to do with them? Here at The Maven, we're not huge fans of eating Maine shrimp raw with a dash of salt and a squeeze of lemon like so many people seem to be. But we will agree that the less you do with them, the better. We absolutely adore them flash-fried with garlic and olive oil or cooked,  chilled and served in a shrimp cocktail or Cobb salad.

We want to know: what's your favorite way to serve Maine shrimp?

Still not sure? Try this great recipe from cookbook author, Bon Appetit columnist and regular Down East Brooke Dojny, who lives in Sedgwick. It comes from her cookbook "Dishing Up Maine" (Storey, 2006) and it's a classic:

Maine Shrimp Linguine

8 tablespoons butter
6 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons minced shallots
1 cup bottled clam juice
1 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons Angostura bitters
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
12 ounces linguine
1 pound shelled Maine shrimp
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper, to taste

1. Heat butter and oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and shallots and cook for 1 minute. Add clam juice, raise heat to high and boil until reduced by one-third, about 5 minutes. Add bitters, lemon zest, lemon juice and red pepper flakes.

2. Cook the pasta until al dente.

3. Reheat the sauce, add the shrimp and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the shrimp just turn pink, about 2 minutes. Stir in parsley and season to taste.

4. Drain pasta, toss with shrimp and sauce, and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Image credit: Port Clyde Fresh Catch.
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For Foodies

It's a busy week on the Maine food scene. Here are a few highlights:


• Cleonice in Ellsworth will hold a "Big Night" dinner on Sunday, Jan. 31. Chef Rich Hanson will prepare the legendary menu from the foodie-fave film. Timpano, anyone? If you haven't seen the movie yet, rent it immediately. And reserve your seat now. Not surprisingly, this one sells out fast. www.cleonice.com.

• Get your boots on, get your coat on and get your drink on at the Portland Harbor Hotel's ice bar event. For three days only, (Thursday, Jan. 28-Saturday, Jan. 30) chef Earl Morse will turn the hotel's courtyard into a winter wonderland for grownups, with ice sculptures, delicious food and very, very cold drinks. Proceeds from ticket sales benefit local nonprofits. www.portlandharborhotel.com.

• The Maine Restaurant Association has named Rick Hirsch of Damariscotta River Grill the Maine Chef of the Year. Hirsch is a Johnson and Wales grad and he and his wife, Jean Kerrigan, also own and operate the Anchor Inn Restaurant in Round Pond and Red Plate Catering. Congrats!
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Condiment Sense


He're at The Maven, we're all about safe snacks. Our advice? Use a condiment.

Not your thing? Maybe the offerings from Northwoods Gourmet Girl will change your mind. Abby Freethy, a CIA-trained chef, caterer and restaurateur, creates these upscale, beautifully packaged products in Greenville.

We're especially fond of her Country Ketchup — if you haven't tried homemade ketchup, you are SO missing out — and Jalapeno Relish, but Freethy is known far and wide for her Caramelized Balsamic Onions. She also makes sweet preserves, such as blueberry, raspberry and blackberry jam, but we're sticking with the savory stuff.

It's just what we need to protect ourselves from boring burgers and sub-par sandwiches. Hey, better safe (and tasty) than sorry, right?

Northwoods Gourmet Girl products are available by calling (207) 570-8112. To view the full line of products or to learn more about Freethy's catering services visit Northwoods Gourmet Girl's Web site. 
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It Was All Yellow


When The Maven met Jason, she couldn't cook to save her life. The entire contents of her refrigerator consisted of a six-pack of Heineken, a jar of Prego pasta sauce (which was, in all likelihood, moldy), a bottle of Ken's Italian dressing and about five jars of gourmet mustard. At least one of them was Raye's. And they were probably the only thing in that kitchen that saw any use.

People who know The Maven know she has an unnatural obsession with hot dogs. She's normally a super-healthy, all-organic, no-processed-foods kind of eater. But hot dogs (pink, not red) are her one vice. Hence the ridiculous assortment of mustards.

Apparently, we're not alone. This week, in the Atlantic monthly's food blogs, Ari Weinzweig waxes poetic about yellow mustard from Raye's in Eastport. To read the post — and you should — click here. Weinzweig does a hell of a job describing the product and process, so we'll spare you the details, but suffice it to say, there's no better way to top a hot dog. In fact, Raye's has a mustard for that very purpose, called Top Dog. Up until now, we've been a fan of Raye's Old World Gourmet and Sweet and Spicy, but Top Dog may jet to the top of the list. There's also a new, super-hot offering called White Heat — very intriguing.

You could just buy a bottle of French's and call it good — it's a staple. But if you care about your condiments and enjoy supporting a Maine business, pay the extra buck or so and splurge on Raye's. You'll be glad you did. And so will your dog.

For ordering information, visit Raye's Mustard.
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Tall, Dark and Steamy


We like our sipping chocolate like we like our truffles: dark, not too sweet, and adventursome.  Eatch batch is made carefully by hand and subtly spiced with cinnamon, Ancho chile and cardamom. Take a trip, with each steaming sip, as you sit by the fire--or quench your craving by sipping it iced and deliciously frothy.  Each bag makes 12 generous cups.  Slow cooking instructions included.



We apologize for the late posting this morning, but The Maven had a storm day at her day job and decided to take advantage of the situation by sleeping in. Way in.

Better chocolate than never ...

After the holidays, we know you're probably completely sweeted out. At our house, we can't even keep up with all the truffles, cookies, candies and baked goods. But days like today call for a big, steamy mug of hot chocolate. And every time we utter the word "chocolate," our thoughts turn to Black Dinah Chocolatiers of Isle Au Haut.

On this tiny, gorgeous island off Stonington, Kate and Steve Shaffer create incredibly sophisticated truffles, caramels, barks and molded chocolates. This season, they introduced sipping chocolates to the mix and the result is equally intriguing. As they say, "We like our sipping chocolate like we like our truffles: dark, not too sweet, and adventursome."

By "adventursome," they mean that they add delicate notes of cinnamon, ancho chile and cardamom to the mix. Swiss Miss it ain't. But if you're looking for something a little more grown-up, buy a bag. You'll be glad you did, especially on a snowy day like today.

Black Dinah Chocolatiers products are available at Archipelago, The Wine Seller and In Good Company in Rockland; the Blue Hill Co-Op and Fairwinds Florist in Blue Hill; The Cave in Brooklin; Turtle Gallery in Deer Isle; RAYR Wines in Rockport; and Lily's Cafe and The Seasons of Stonington. For online ordering information, click here.
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Maine-Made Gift Guide: Food for Thought

Here at The Maven, we're wild about eating locally, and we think there's no better last-minute gift than Maine-made food products. Think about it: You can pick them up almost anywhere, from the corner store to Hannaford to your neighborhood gourmet shop (if you're lucky enough to have one). And who doesn't love to receive food? Here are a few of our favorite giftable edibles:



• Oyster River wine, made in Warren, is so good it hurts. Your friends and family will love you if you show up with a bottle — not that they didn't love you before. Click here for retailers.



• Pair that wine with a round of Seal Cove Farm chevre and you'll be good to go. This creamy, dreamy cheese has just the right bite (in other words, even people who don't traditionally like goat cheese will like it). For a list of retailers, click here.


• Have you ever met a foodie who doesn't love high-end salt? We've long been fans of Quoddy Mist (we buy it at Rooster Brother in Ellsworth), and we're intrigued by the offerings from Maine Sea Salt Co., especially the flavored blends and the smoked salt (for a list of retailers, click here).


• If you have not tried Marnee's Cookies, made in Bath, you're missing out. They're huge. The packaging can't be beat. And unlike most store-bought cookies, they taste fabulous. The Euphoria (cranberries, white chocolate, pecans) is very "Maine," but we prefer Nirvana (chocolate chips and toffee). 23 Elm St., Bath, Marnees.com.



• What do you buy for the foodie who has tried everything? Ann Marie's Secret Sauce. Made by hand in Bangor, this sauce transforms plain meats into gourmet meals — we adore it on pork tenderloin. As sauce-mistress Ann Marie Orr says, the secret ingredient is love. Awww. For a list of retailers, click here.

• We've said it before and we'll say it again: the Chex Mix at Megunticook Market in Camden is as good as Grandma used to make. Plus, if you buy a few bags and repackage it at home, nobody will be the wiser. 2 Gould St., Camden, MegunticookMarket.com
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Last-Minute Thanksgiving Tips


You are so screwed. It's two days before Thanksgiving and the grocery store is going to be an absolute zoo. And you totally spaced on the green beans/pumpkin pie/copious amounts of liquor. Whoops. But don't freak out just yet. Below is our guide to some of the best locally owned places to stock up while beating the crowds. Just one more reason to give thanks — which is more than you can say about that guy who dented your door in the parking lot at Shaw's.

Have a favorite local market we left out? Let us know by posting a comment!

- Chase's Daily, 96 Main St., Belfast, (207) 338-0555. You'll be able to find cool-weather vegetables and baked goods at this Belfast favorite, which is part cafe, part indoor farmers market.

- Farmers Fare, (pictured above) Route 90 and Cross Street, Rockport, (207) 236-3273. Grab some pumpkins or squash or say to hell with cooking and plan to come to their Thanksgiving Feast instead.

- LeRoux Kitchen, 161 Commercial St., Portland, (207) 553-7665. Now is not the time to mess around with cheap cookware. Splurge on an All Clad roaster and call it good.

- Megunticook Market, 2 Gould St., Camden, (207) 236-3537. You've never mastered Martha's Pate Brisee, so why mess with it now? Let Lani Temple and her crew at Megunticook Market do the work — the pies here are to die for (and so is the Chex mix).

- Natural Living Center, 209 Longview Dr., Bangor, (207) 990-2646. All you need is another tablespoon of rosemary and some organic broth to make your gravy, and there's no way in hell you're heading to the supercenter for that. Buy spices in bulk — at great prices — and grab other essentials at this favorite Bangor institution.

- Rosemont Market, 88 Congress St., Portland, (207) 773-7888. If we lived in Portland, we'd be at one of the Rosemont markets every day. Pre-Thanksgiving, you should stop in to stock up on produce and baked goods. If you're lucky, they may even have a free-range organic turkey with your name on it.

- SAD 1 Educational Farm Store, 340 State St., Presque Isle, (207) 764-7725. Need produce, fast? This great farm store — affiliated with MSAD 1's technical program — offers that, along with ready-to-bake pies, gourds and cornstalks (just in case you feel like getting all crafty).

- Vic & Whit's, 206 Main St., Saco, (207) 284-6710. The Maven grew up in Saco, and Vic & Whit's was always a great place to stop and grab a sandwich or a soda. These days, the wine selection is to die for — and that's exactly what family gatherings call for.
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Nezinscot Farm: A Harvest Highlight


Thoughts of Thanksgiving inevitably lead to thoughts of the harvest. And thoughts of the harvest inevitably lead to thoughts of Nezinscot Farm in Turner.

We had the chance to visit this incredible spot at the height of the growing season, and we can't help wishing we were back there now.

Gregg Varney bought the farm from his parents in 1986, and in 1990, he and his wife, Gloria, started a small farm store out of their house. In 1995, they moved the store into the farm's original dairy barn, and it has since become a destination. Part farm store, part cafe, part knitting and fiber shop, part cheese house, part classroom, Nezinscot Farm has grown into the type of place the Varneys envisioned all those years ago.

"This is my idea of bringing my lifestyle and my education together to educate the community," says Gloria Varney, who has a degree in community health education and nutrition. "When people come here, they not only experience good food, they experience a lifestyle that's healthy. They experience farm life. They experience us working. We're addressing people's mental, nutritional and physical health."

Some people just come to sit on a rocking chair on the farm store's long front porch. Others visit so they can hang out in the yarn shop and knit a few rows. Students from Bates College hang out over gigantic omelets and hot cups of coffee. And people from near and far come for the gorgeous biodynamic produce and tangy raw-milk cheeses.

Nezinscot was Maine's first organic dairy, and Gloria describes "biodynamic" as a step above organic: "basically, it's farming homeopathy. You acknowledge the earth as you would your body."

It's about knowing the rhythm of the land, the elements, even the cosmos, and learning how to respond in a situation like last summer's endless rain. It's the reason why Nezinscot is the place to be during the harvest — and year-round. And it's the reason why the Varneys have been able to thrive when so many other small, diversified farming operations can't.

"They're aren't a lot of farms doing what we're doing," Gloria says. "They're either corporate-owned or one of the spouses is working off the farm. It's a lifestyle that's no longer conducive to most people today. There's definitely been a resurgence in consumers' awareness of wanting to know where there food is coming from — and they also want to be able to see it."

You can see for yourself — and sample meats, cheeses and those crazy-huge omelets, year-round at Nezinscot Farm, 284 Turner Center Road in Turner. For more information, visit www.NezinscotFarm.com.
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Farm League

Over the weekend, we made our annual pilgrimage to Presque Isle. Not exactly Mecca, but lovely, albeit chilly, nonetheless. While dining at Cafe Sorpreso (look for a full review tomorrow), we saw an interesting note on the menu: all of the produce, including the tender butter lettuce in our salad and the succulent new potatoes on our plates, comes from the "School Farm."

But what, we asked, is the School Farm?

As it turns out, this 38-acre parcel overlooking the city is home to an agricultural program for students at Presque Isle High School and Presque Isle Regional Career and Technology Center. We visited the farm store Saturday and were thoroughly impressed — outside, giant bins overflowed with pumpkins and winter squash. Inside, gourds, honey and polished apples were on display, while ready-to-bake pies beckoned from the freezer.

These kids can grow. And, perhaps equally important, they know how to present the fruits of their labor — this was some of the prettiest produce we've seen. While The County is known for spuds, students at the farm are learning how to cultivate a diverse range of crops, including tree fruit and high-bush blueberries, hydroponic tomatoes and lettuce, carrots, beets and — of course — potatoes. They collect honey from the bees used to pollinate the crops and press cider after the apple harvest. They even staff the farm store.

It's a growing concern. And a must-visit if you're in the County.

School Farm Store
340 State Street
Presque Isle, Maine
(207) 764-7725

www.sad1.org/schoolfarm
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On The Lamb

It feels like we've been reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma" forever. Don't get us wrong. Michael Pollan is a great writer, but it's — pardon the pun — a lot to digest. The process and politics of our food system are incredibly complex, but with each page we turn, we're even happier that much of what we eat is either grown in our garden or locally produced.

There are so many points in this book that stand out, but the thing that really freaked us out was the section on corn-fed vs. grass-fed meats. All this time, we thought it was perfectly wonderful — more wholesome, even — to serve corn-fed anything. Whoops. We're not going to get too technical here, but if you haven't read the book, here's the oversimplified skinny: ruminant animals (cows, sheep, goats) are supposed to eat grass and other forage crops. It is not natural for them to eat corn, and their digestive system doesn't really love it. And yet, in the industrial food system, that is exactly what they're fed.

Fortunately, our farmers market in Orono has several grass-fed and grass-finished meat options, including the sublime Meadowsweet Farm. We're wild about lamb, especially ground lamb, and whenever we find it, we stock up on it (as we did on Saturday). We've tried many locally raised options, and Meadowsweet's is our clear favorite. Paula and Sumner Roberts of Swanville produce ground lamb that has an optimal fat content — most of it burns off on the grill, but enough is left over to leave the meat moist and tender. Plus, it doesn't have the gamy flavor that so many lamb products do. Try it in a lamb burger (recipes below). You can find Meadowsweet (and, usually, Paula) at the Orono and Belfast farmers markets. For more information, e-mail Meadowsweet at meadowsweet@prexar.com.

Food Network Lamb Burgers
This is a riff on a lamb burger we saw on "Diners, Drive-Throughs and Dives."
For each pound of ground lamb, season with 2 cloves minced garlic (or more), salt and pepper. Divide into patties (a pound usually makes about three burgers) and grill over hot coals until they're medium-rare. While the burgers are grilling, also grill pineapple slabs and prepare spicy mayonnaise by mixing 2 tablespoons Hellman's mayo with 1/2 teaspoon cayenne and a dash of garlic powder (add more spices to taste). Serve burgers on focaccial topped with spicy mayo, grilled pineapple and fresh cilantro leaves.

Greek-Style Lamb Burgers
This is our humble attempt at replicating the amazing lamb burgers at Cleonice in Ellsworth. Theirs are better, but these are good.
For each pound of ground lamb, season with 3 cloves minced garlic (more to taste), 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint, salt and pepper. Prepare faux tzatziki sauce by combining 1/2 cup plain yogurt, 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint, 1 clove garlic, minced and turned into paste, and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate. Grill burgers until they're medium-rare. Serve burgers in pita bread or focaccia and top with sauce.
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Buttered Up

Butter says a lot about a place. Think about it: When you're out to eat and the server brings a basket full of prepackaged rolls and a handful of tiny margarine tubs, you know things are just going downhill from there.

On the other end of the spectrum, there's the transcendent experiene that is European butter. When a ramekin of the stuff shows up at your table, it makes bread seem like an afterthought. It's the kind of condiment that leads you to rationalize licking your knife at a fine-dining establishment. You feel like a glutton asking for more, but you can't help yourself.

This is kind of how we felt when we first tried Houlton Farms Butter. It's not quite as creamy as its European counterparts, but it's loaded with butterfat and the flavor is sublime. For the uninitiated, it's a bit saltier than traditional butter and a bit more colorful — Houlton Farms Dairy adds a natural dye because the yellower product was better received in the market. Do not let this deter you, because you'll be missing out. It's wonderful for baked goods, such as scones, but our favorite way to serve it is melted with a freshly steamed Maine lobster.

Whenever we're in the County, we stock up on one-pound blocks (Houlton Farms butter is available at almost all of the grocery stores and many convenience stores in Aroostook County), but you can also buy it in Bangor at McLaughlin's Seafood. Just be sure to order more than one — and try to refrain from licking your knife at the table.
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